Saturday, February 14, 2015

France 2015 -- Martin "Marty" Mouse tours Paris and Angouleme UPDATED MARCH 5

  

Welcome to the Martin "Marty" Mouse tour of France --
for previous adventures with Marty .. and some background on Marty the internet phenomenon, check out these posts from 2014 ..November/CTNX http://stuartngbooks.blogspot.com/2014/11/behind-scenes-with-martin-marty-mouse.html and summer/Comic Con http://stuartngbooks.blogspot.com/2014/08/comic-con-2014-fun-of-camaraderie.html. And of course, the Martin "Marty" Mouse facebook page, with 19,000+ likes (due to photographs by the amazing Sarah Hunt) https://www.facebook.com/martymousetherat
All of the squeeze Marty pillow art is designed by Steph Laberis https://www.facebook.com/stephlaberisart 
See more squeeze Marty pillow designs here http://martymousehouse.bigcartel.com/

Marty posts here on the blog document his adventures at conventions. Yes, there's a convention visit at the end of this post .. but Marty's online persona is also famous for his "internashunel bizness" and this post involves international travel. Travel to a different country means seeing the sites and enjoying the humor of trying to communicate everyday things in a different language. The best part of international travel is experiencing life in a different culture . We take our way of life for granted. Travel teaches us that, around the world, the customs, habits, and values we share with others might seem similar.. but you soon realize and celebrate the "cultural differences"...

Marty appreciated the French way of life that embraces the concept of a lingering lunchhour (usually 2 hours or more...) spent not only enjoying the yummy food, but also the company of your companions, or if you happen to be alone, the people-watching that makes Paris so memorable....

Cafes are everywhere...
And the outdoor seating often faces out into the street -- better to see and be seen by the passing crowd...
Like any good tourist... Marty enjoyed picking up some souvenirs...
Paris is especially easy to navigate .. thanks to an abundance of maps like these at many intersections..
It's fun to look for the famous Metro signs...



and spot the signs for the RER trains...
keep looking...
got it!
With so many iconic outdoor monuments ... almost everywhere you look there is a photo op...
For newbie visitors like Marty .. here is a quick tour of some handy tips

At restaurants and with all your encounters ... do TRY to speak some French. Pocket phrase books can be useful with helpful phrases to know .. or at least point to if you get stuck. It's good manners in France to say "bonjour" when you enter a store or restaurant, and your courtesy will be appreciated. From your first word, a native speaker will know you aren't one ..... and the minute you TRY, most folks will reward your courage and chime in right away in English to help you out. Think about when you encounter European visitors in the US .. they don't start out speaking to you in their native language.. they try to communicate in the language where they are a guest. Be considerate and TRY! You'll be glad you did... the more you listen to all the beautiful French language around you, the more vocabulary you'll pick up, and the more comfortable you'll be with trying. Put on your listening ears and absorb the adventure of a different culture...

In the areas of Paris most frequented by tourists, you'll often spot signs in English ... especially in front of restaurants. If you're timid about trying to order food, don't worry. You'll find lots of places with bi-lingual menus with photos...


Here's a sample bi-lingual sign ... many of the crepe restaurants have a take-out area out front...
Marty was glad to realize he already knew some handy French words .. like CREPE!!! Super easy to spot the  crepe restaurants .. and they serve not only dessert crepes but also savory crepes for a main course
Lots of restaurants and cafes offer free Wi-fi (pronouced "wee-fee" in French). Look for the "wi fi free" sign on their window or awning...
this sticker in the window for "CB" tells you they accept credit cards...
If you want to take a Taxi .. you can't flag one down on the street like we do in the US. Instead, look for a designated Taxi area with signs like these...

Paris is full of flower stands...
And little parks on almost every corner..
Many of the parks also have free wi-fi...

Local and chain bakeries will tempt you with croissants and more..
Farm-fresh fruits and vegetables are also abundant. There are neighborhood markets on most streets .. some are small store fronts .. and some are little markets of stands that open only on certain days. There are also chain grocery stores .. here's a sign for one of these..
Do your shopping on Monday - Saturday. Except for souvenir shops, museums and most restaurants... it's typical for businesses and stores to be CLOSED on Sunday in France. It's a law that reflects the French culture's appreciation of family time .. Sunday mornings are to spend at the market (or church).. then enjoy a big mid-day meal with friends.. and perhaps a nice stroll in the afternoon.
If you need items on a Sunday.. look for these Carrefour markets .. they have groceries and sundries and are one of the few places open on Sundays...
One of the words Marty quickly learned was "jouet" ...
it's French for "toys" .. who doesn't love a toy store... this one feature a large statue of comics hero Tin-Tin and his dog Snowy in the window...
Paris is brimming with architectural wonders .. but Marty sees things from a slightly different perspective .. and being close to the ground, marveled at the enormous doorways .. often decorated with elaborate hardware...In many cases, these huge doors once opened to accommodate horse-drawn carriages that entered the large courtyards just on the other side of these imposing gates...

Of course .. a visit to a world-famous city like Paris means seeing and appreciating all the landmarks and history...






 It's all part of the fun....
Only two blocks from the Eiffel tower..

 Is a modern oasis .. and a historical nod to US-France relations....
The charming American Library in Paris ...http://www.americanlibraryinparis.org/ Check the library's website for lectures, programs, hours and borrowing policies...
This cart outside helps locate the main entrance... and the cart is stocked with FREE English language books...
Marty approves!
 

Inside the library you can enjoy the climate controlled environment... and catch up on world and local periodicals..

 These photos are all of the first floor. On the second floor, there is a helpful shelf of French-English phrasebooks and study guides to help with your language issues .. not to mention to bi-lingual staff.

 These sturdy canvas tote bags with the library logo are available to purchase!
 For American and English-language visitors, this library is a little slice of home, just steps from this "you can't miss it" landmark....
There's an array of Eiffel Tower souvenirs in shops throughout the tourist areas...
And stunning period building facades.... click to enlarge this and see all the details. So many gates and fortresses....
These towering gates are in the garden at the Rodin museum....
The museum is currently being renovated .. but there's still lots to see both inside the building...

and in the outdoor garden full of sculptures...

The garden features the famous "Thinker"...http://www.musee-rodin.fr/en/collections/sculptures/thinker

This work was first part of this larger gate ... based on Dante's "the Gates of Hell"

And the monument to writer Balzac  http://www.musee-rodin.fr/en/collections/sculptures/monument-balzac

Paris is known for its art museums .... but the sciences are also celebrated. Like the mall in Washington DC, Paris has an outdoor park that is lined by natural history museums...This Paris setting was once the grounds for the royal gardens for growing medicinal plants .... http://www.france.fr/en/museums/national-museum-natural-history.html
more on the history of this location and the various museums on site here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Museum_of_Natural_History_%28France%29
Marty enjoyed his day at my personal favorite of these museums -- the Grand Gallery of Evolution. It's a real gem --- and in 2014 celebrated the 20th anniversary of its spectacular renovation...
Here's the entrance to the Grand Gallery of Evolution ... Inside this ancient building, which retains so much of its impressive, historical character is a dazzingly, state-of-the-art immersive experience with specimins of animals from all over the globe...
The visit begins on a lower floor.. with this scale model of the entire building...
And the lower floor all in blue light to simulate the underwater environment of the aquatic animals showcased there...
The ambiance of lights and sounds really makes you feel like you are part of the aqua world all around you;...
A bonus on this floor is a version of this famous sculpture of a Polar Bear by artist Francois Pompon. The original is located at the Musee d'Orsay http://www.musee-orsay.fr/en/collections/works-in-focus/sculpture/commentaire_id/polar-bear-2186.html?tx_commentaire_pi1%5BpidLi%5D=842&tx_commentaire_pi1%5Bfrom%5D=729&cHash=cc260927d2

Look at his lovely smile....
The real show-stopper though is the "Noah's Ark"-esque parade of animals on the mail floor...


Every time I've visited this museum, there is always a delighted group of school children.

The design of this display is so charming .. there is so much story-telling to enjoy in the way the animals are interacting in groups .. or observing on their own.. watching us as much as we are watching them...


Since you can get SO CLOSE to the animals .. much closer than at most museums.. or at the zoo.. the scale of the animals becomes quite startling.

Most haunting of all is the times when the backstory the individual animals is known and shared. Of course, there is an origin story for each of these specimens ... and the most amazing tale of all is how close they all came to becoming lost to neglect and oblivion. Instead, they are housed in this ideal setting .. sharing their legacy of scientific study.... education .. and emotional connection .. for new generations...

You can view the parade of animals from different upper levels of the building. The lighting and sound effects change over time .. so throughout your visit you will experience daylight .. twilight .. even thunderstorms.. adding to the sensation of being on board the ark with the animals...





Just when you think this museum can't get any better .. it does....Again, time is a factor...
as you enter the subdued lighting in the special hall that protects the rarest specimens on display... . the endangered..


like the Harpy Eagle (rare)
and in handful of cases .. the extinct....Here in this hall, you will be only a pane of glass away from the last of their kind .. lost to our time except for here in this place .. staring back at you with untold and unknown stories locked inside them. When you see your own reflection beside them in the glass.. you realize how connected we all are...It is a time capsule, and we aren't just observers .. we are, like them, part of a vast population now.. but we each have a clock that will run out of time when our turn comes....What will our legacy be???
Quagga (above and below) .. extinct since the 19th Century
Exciting scientific effort to bring the Quagga back via "The Quagga Project: is detailed on the website...http://www.quaggaproject.org/
Sumatra Tiger (critically endangered)
Schomburgk Deer (extinct since 20th century)

some animals on display are the only known examples of their kind.. like the little mammals below.
Here's another extinct animal, the Thylacine .. or Tasmanian Tiger (extinct in the 1930s)
click on link below to view clip of footage of one from a zoo

A large glass case at the entrance to this hall showcases these extinct lion sub-species .. the Cape Lion (largest ever of the lion sub-species, the males were known for their black manes) and the North African Barbary Lion...



A common cause for the extinction of nearly all the animals in this hall was over-hunting and/or loss of habitat due to the arrival of settlers or other human populations to the animals' native environments....Sometimes extinction was the result of other pressures from environment or evolution .. but too often, it was mankind's rush to open door to trade and resources that closed the door on many animals. 
This doorway is the entrance to the dimly-lit hall of rare and extinct animals.....
The only remains of Dodo birds are skeletons like this one...


The model Dodo below is a reconstruction using modern materials....
A visit to this amazing hall of animals that are no longer with us makes the animal species still on the planet seem even more special....

Here's Marty with artist pal Agnes ... who helped with this visit!
This case shows the many steps .. and all the artistic skills.. required to create the spesciemn on display...

A recent addition to this always improving space is a room just for kids and groups of young students. It's open only certain times of the day...
Marty rounded out his visit by learning some fun facts about a modern day mythological beastie .. the Narwhal...Below Marty compares his height to a Narwhal horn....
Some Narwhal nuggets we learned: The price for Narwhal horns peaked in the 16th Century. Tales of sea monsters were often used to protect maritime routes. The throne of the Kings of Denmark was mode of Narwhal horns.....
On another day ... Marty's tour continues with a walk past the Sorbonne...
Here's Marty with young Parisian college students...
Just around the corner from another famous site...
The resting place of the heroes and heroines of the republic... (currently covered due to ongoing renovation)



But we aren't stopping here today .. we're making a pilgrimage to a nearby spot....


Another Paris on-site map.. this on the perimeter of this campus...


oops .. got distracted a bit on the way.. by this super cool gateway to the Institute of Oceanography
with a GIANT OCTOPUS...

Getting back on track to where we need to be....

Inside the humble little exterior...

Is a treasure of discovery ...  and the story of family ...
The Musee Curie...http://musee.curie.fr/

Just last year, the museum re-opened after an extensive renovation.. made possible by funds from the estate of the late Eve Curie (1904-2007) .. the accomplished author, pianist, UNICEF diplomat, and daughter of Marie and Pierre Curie.

The renovation is a respectful update of the main exhibit area, displaying equipment, artifacts and replicas of scientific equipment....

The space remains its authenticity ... after all, these rooms were the last office and laboratory of Madame Curie... The actual desk she sat at...

And her adjacent humble lab space... overlooking her beloved garden...



Rich with educational material about the family and the milestones they achieved in science, the museum also conveys the warm and importance of the family connection .. both between Pierre and Marie .. and later between Marie and their daughter Irene .. all Nobel prize winners. For all her accomplishments, Marie Curie still struggled with challenges modern working women face .. trying to balance her work with her role as a wife and mother .. and managing all the tasks that ended on her desk.. from answering mail from Presidents.. to ordering office repairs. The range of her talents.. and tasks.. are recognized and celebrated in this special museum. Admission is FREE (donations are accepted).

All parts of Paris are special ... but I have a special attachment to the 5th arrondissement ... full of tourist and student energy...

Lots of history too .. like the Cluny Museum ... http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/


This museum specializes in artifacts and architecture of the Middle Ages...
Another reason the 5th is our "base-camp" in Paris ... There are LOTS of bookstsores...
Familiar and French versions of fast food...
Yummy take-out pizza slices at Pizza Rustica .. a chain in France...http://www.pizzarustica.fr/
Beautiful outdoor monuments, fountains and sculptures..



and Rue Dante ...
 a row of comics and pop culture stores ... the Comics central of Paris .. featuring our comics vendor pals at Pulp's comics http://pulpscomics.blogspot.com/ ....They have 3 stores in the 5th .. two are on rue Dante...
Pulp's Toys...

Pulp's comics ..


The third store features t-Shirts with US comic characters ... and is located on Blvd. Saint Germain..

 The Pulp's Comics signs are in French and English .. an easy way to pick up some useful vocabulary...
Also located on rue Dante .. "Odyssey" the world's first STAR WARS-themed Crepe Cafe!! https://www.facebook.com/odyssey.paris

When it's OPEN .. this cafe is busy with happy patrons .. and staff dressed in costumes from Star Wars characters ...
We learned the hard way that UNLIKE most restaurants in the 5th, the Odyssey is CLOSED on Sundays! Next time!!! Rue Dante is a short street.. but packed with comics and pop culture stores. If you're a comic con geek.. this is YOUR street in Paris...
AND it's home to a great Japanese restaurant...SUPER DELICIOUS and terrific vegetarian option! Perfect for a light lunch or dinner...
 http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187147-d1239130-Reviews-Matsuya-Paris_Ile_de_France.html
Bookstores line the streets of the Seine near Notre Dame...these are the open-air bookstalls of the Paris "Bouquinistes" .. sellers of rare and antique books... and assorted other trinkets and oddities...http://www.frenchmoments.eu/bouquinistes-of-paris/



If English-language books are on your shopping list .. another famous book link and xpat hangout.. Sharkespeare and Company is just across the street.....http://shakespeareandcompany.com/



 Sorry.. no pictures from inside... you must visit and see for yourself!
Paris is a great city to wander in and discover on foot .. even in the off-season cold of February! Sunny skies inspire a walk across the Seine .. past the Ile de Cite....http://www.aparisguide.com/ile-de-la-cite/
Strolling along a street lined with cafes and souvenir shops....
On the way to the "hotel de villes - Paris" .. a city center... with Government offices and public activites like the winter skating rink and year-round carousel...
Metro station for the Hotel de Ville
Street view towards the public square, with carousel and skating rink...





Here's the main post office...
Nearby streets have large and small stores...
The red banners at this Paris BVH deparment store announce it's "SOLDES" ... or "sale" season.. http://www.yelp.com/biz/bhv-marais-paris
A few blocks away ...
The striking architecture of the Georges Pompidou Center .. http://en.parisinfo.com/paris-museum-monument/71538/Centre-Pompidou
 This is the line to enter ... Sundays are busy days for Paris museums .. even off -season!

Click on the photo below to see examples of the paris City bicycles available for rent.. and in the background.. an example of an outdoor mural...
Marty's France adventure also included a tour of the largest comics f estival in all of Europe -- known by the name of the historical town that hosts it ... Angouleme .., two hours by high-speed train from Paris...This year's festival included a salute and exhibition of the work of "Calvin and Hobbes" artist Bill Waterston.
 Angloueme is a beautiful city with roots in the middle ages, but lots of contemporary charm...
 Tents are installed throughout the city to hold the booths for publishers and exhibitors....

Every tent has booths with artists who are doing demos and signing their works and books....
From individual artist .. to small bookshops and stores... to big publishers....


Here's a map of the city with all the festival tents and attractions highlighted..

And banners appear on the city's central square ... and on streets throughout the town..






These festival vehicles are decorated with the mascot character "Fauve" created for the festival by artist Lewis Trondheim.
  
There's more than comics to enjoy at Angouleme. There's FOOD!!! At the center of town is a glass-walled building .. the "halle" ..

 filled with food stalls.. but only opening in the mornings...







Right next to the Halle was the tent for some of our favorite vendors.....
 Here's Marty with Samuel from Pulp's at their t-shirt booth ....
 Marty looks right at home with the booth of official Angouleme mementos...
At home, Marty lives with 8 cats -- so he enjoyed the little figurines of kitten "chi" at the Attakus booth ... 


Here's Marty at the Attakus and Comix Buro booth with our pal Elsa...
 
Marty and new friend Cedric at the Nemo books booth...
 There were fun toy booths in this tent too...
While Angouleme is a European comics festival ... US comics superheroes where well represented .. in books, merchandise... and these life-size replicas, popular with fans of all ages...
Another popular exhibit at the festival was this tribute to American comics artist Jack Kirby...
Next to the Kirby exhibit, there was a large room sponsored by Sodabar beverages.... Super popular with families. Not only free samples of the soda...
But also a "dress-up" box with costumes, masks and props for photo ops...
This little guy made his own Captn. America-Iron Man mash-up...
Guess who???
I'm "Ratman"....
Inside this same tent, Korean artist Kim Jung Ji  (pictured drawing below).
Appreciative crowds flocked to see his "drawing show" hours while he worked on this large mural near his booth...

below is the finished mural .. several days work...
and a detail from the mural...
 
Marty made friends with festival staff ant one of the official boutiques...


ANGOULEME FESTIVAL POSTER


Calvin and Hobbes themed Angouleme pin ... features Lewis Trondheim's festival mascot in "costume" as Hobbes in homage to Bill Watterson's characters  


This bust of comics artist (and Tin-Tin creator) Herge is a permanent part of rue Herge in the city...


Local shops decorate their windows to celebrate the festival...

Marty takes a break at one of the many cafes....
The "Le Chat Noir" cafe is a popular meeting spot during the festival...

 Marty enjoyed a stop there too..

Quite a crowd for the Calvin and Hobbes exhibit....


Marty blended right in...





In addition to the tents and programs at the festival... Angouleme itself is a beautiful city to explore
Be prepared for cobblestone sidewalks and some steep staircases...
But you'll be rewarded with panoramas like these...



Angouleme also has its own city museum .. with English-language audio guides of the collection available. http://musee-angouleme.fr/
 A bientot! (see you soon)...

Eiffel Tower at night.....


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