This wonderland is the oldest department store in Paris. It opened in 1852. https://www.lvmh.com/en/our-maisons/selective-retailing/le-bon-marche-rive-gauche
Why visit large department stores in city like Paris??? My wonderful parents loved to travel. They visited places like Paris and London over the years. Mom even had plans to attend school in Paris at one point. One of the many life lessons Mom shared with me is a joy of shopping at department stores. Not just for the purchases, but for the ambience.
A large department store in a big, unfamiliar city is a basecamp from the home country (especially when you're in a foreign capital). If you are a solo female tourist, a day at a department store can be a place to relax your "radar," blend in, and have a welcome reset from traveler mode. If immersion in a different culture has become exhausting, shopping at a department store can feel comforting and familiar. Inside a department store, you will be in a safe space, and protected from the elements. You'll see familiar retail landscapes, often with seating areas or a restaurant, restrooms, and sometimes a customer service or concierge desk that can provide helpful tips tourists if the store is in a tourist area. A department store gives you insights into the fashions, home decor and trends of the city. You can observe the other shoppers as well as the merchandise.
Most department stores will have a map near the escalators or elevators to help you get oriented. Even if you aren't a shopper, if you plan to linger at the store, I highly recommend going to a department where it's easy to make a small purchase (fashion accessories; children's; stationary) and buy something. Get a belt, a wallet, a scarf. These make great gifts or useful souvenirs. Have the clerk put your purchase in a store branded bag. It will be your credentials as a customer. Even if you are mostly there for the experience.
Paris has a number of thriving luxury department stores to visit. I grew up shopping with my mom in a great era for department stores... back when places like I Magnin's in San Francisco and Liberty House in Honolulu were at their peak. We would arrive when the store first opened, eat an early lunch at the store cafe, and finish our shopping and be home before the afternoon rush hour.
My visits to Paris department stores started with the impressive BHV Marais, near the Paris Hotel de Ville. https://www.bhv.fr/e1/vivez-bhv/actualites/bhv-marais
My beloved French friend Anabelle took me on my first-ever visit to Le Bon Marche on my 2020 Paris trip. I couldn't believe such an iconic department store was so close to the area where I always stay. I will always think of Anabelle when I visit here. On the 2025 trip, I went to Le Bon Marche twice. This post has pics from both visits.
There are two buildings of Le Bon Marche. They are connected by a covered bridge. The first one has the fashion and accessories departments. It has a famous escalator in the center, which also serves as an art installation space.
Here's the escalator and art show from 2025...
I found her books in different parts of the book area. Clearly it was popular!
Browsers with small bowsers stopped to read...
Many of the Le Bon Marche departments had eye-catching merchandise displays..
2025 also featured brightly colored areas of the store highlighting all things "chien" -- dog themed items for people and accessories for the dogs themselves.
This fun "pup-up" book was in this pink section..
But also mustards...
So many sardines...
With beautiful packaging...
And a wall of (not refrigerated) eggs..
My bags from purchases, and also tote bag for the market!
Here's my side trip to the Marin Montagut flagship store..
On this trip, I was able to spend time at a very special small park near the Metro stations next to Le Bon Marche...
This park has a playground... and a small carousel..
Inside this park is a precious tribute...
to all the species of animals who served in World War I. The figure on each of the silhouettes represents the number of those animals who paid the ultimate price. The famous book Black Beauty has a moving chapter about a War Horse from WWI. Not to mention the "War Horse" book and film. WWI was a particularly brutal conflict. The sacrifices of both World Wars are still honored in Paris.Having the "Google Translate" app for moments like this really helps. It's too easy to take what you're looking at for granted, and miss the deeper lessons that are communicated in the plaques and memorials.
Experiencing Paris is more than seeing the iconic sites. Go where the locals go. Visit the small spaces.
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